PSU Help

Need power supply size and type for this:

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.as...6811117086 (Pre-owned, so I already have it)

and this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6814130562

ATX power supply


it says it right there in the descriptions, bro!

You should be able to pop in at least a 600W power supply. I'd grab a 700W for future upgrade purposes though.

The 460 has a Minimum of a 450 Watt power supply requirement.

What CPU?

A 500w PS was recomended here for the GTX460 or a 700w if you're going to use SLI with 2 cards.

ATX power supply


it says it right there in the descriptions, bro!

You should be able to pop in at least a 600W power supply. I'd grab a 700W for future upgrade purposes though.

The 460 has a Minimum of a 450 Watt power supply requirement.

What CPU?

i-5, getting a 600W for now.

If I were to buy a new PSU now, I would go for these two:

- Cooler Master Silent Pro M1000 - http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6628 - 1000Watt - 140 Euro
- Antec TruePower Quattro 1000 - http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=NTk= - 1000Watt - 140 Euro

If those are too expensive, just get a cheap 550Watt Recom PSU (Or similar brands) - http://www.recom.nl/psu.html - 35 Euro

I have a question related to PSU.
I'm planning to bring my hardwares from here over to the US. The electricity line here is at 220V, so I assume that my PSU can't be brought over, that's fine, what I want to know is whether my mainboard and stuff could use the power supplied by a PSU bought in the states, or will they get fried up, or will it lack power.

Specs:

 Spoiler

And what sort of PSU would be enough to run my wares at their full potential? Since I have a video card, my current PSU is barely making it.

I have a question related to PSU.
I'm planning to bring my hardwares from here over to the US. The electricity line here is at 220V, so I assume that my PSU can't be brought over, that's fine, what I want to know is whether my mainboard and stuff could use the power supplied by a PSU bought in the states, or will they get fried up, or will it lack power.

Specs:

 Spoiler

And what sort of PSU would be enough to run my wares at their full potential? Since I have a video card, my current PSU is barely making it.

http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com <- Is your friend!

Result: Your system uses about 300Watts (297) according to that site.

Advise: Get a 500Watt+ cheap power supply with a "premium" B-label. (40 Euro/Dollar/etc)

99% Of all PSU's are the same ATX format, so don't worry about that. The only 2 points you should worry about are:
- Can it handle the 230volt input (all European current is 230volt too, USA uses 115volt, good power supplies can handle both, but check this first.)
- (Check your motherboard for this), does the large white ATX power connector have 20 or 24 pins (just count them), both on the motherboard AND PSU. Older = 20 pins, Newer = 24 pins, 4 more pins to feed the CPU directly.

Oh yeah, don't forget to save your old PSU external power cord, they can always come in use, since those things didn't change for like 20 years now!

- (Check your motherboard for this), does the large white ATX power connector have 20 or 24 pins (just count them), both on the motherboard AND PSU. Older = 20 pins, Newer = 24 pins, 4 more pins to feed the CPU directly.

Should be 24.

 Spoiler

Any idea on the voltage change? My hardwares most likely were manufactured in China with a view to be sold to Vietnamese market, thus it's safe to assume that they were made to use 220V electricity line. What I don't know is whether or not it matters what power voltage you plug in as long as your PSU is suitable for dealing with it.
Somewhat relevant.
Even more relevant:

 Spoiler

You know...
*ZAP* ----220V ---> PSU#1 --xxV-----> hardwares
*ZAP* ----110V ---> PSU#1 --not enough power to run the PSU --/--> hardwares
*ZAP* ----110V ---> PSU#2 ---??? V-----> hardwares

PSU#1 is compatible with 220V power, producing appropriate amounts of power to operate the stuff
PSU#1 is not compatible with 110V power, unable to function
PSU#2 is compatible with 110V power, producing appropriate amounts of power to operate... what? Would this be suitable for the stuff up there?

Well, there are 4 kinds of PSU's:

- 220volt only (safe to use for you at a 220volt line)

- 115volt only (don't use this one - USA only)

- 220/115 volt PSU with a physical switch on the back of it


- 220/115 autoswitching PSU (most A-brand) PSU's like Coolermaster/Antec/Zalman/etc

But if a PSU shows 115/220 on it's label, you're safe!

I think this is gonna be the general PSU help thread now lol.

@Devil

Thanks a ton, waiting till Black Friday / Cybermonday :3

Did enough reading about PSU, I think. So many things to look out for.
- Appropriate maximum wattage (2x the amount intended to be pulled)
- Efficiency (70%+)
- Power distribution between the +12V cord and the others
- Fans, and probably size
- Voltage stability (5% fluctuation on + voltages and 10% on -): How do I even measure its actual voltage, stick a voltmeter into the ATX12V plug?
- Over current protection: I don't even know the safety values for this, so I guess I won't bother
- Other protections: SCP, OVP together with OCP at least

Did enough reading about PSU, I think. So many things to look out for.
- Appropriate maximum wattage (2x the amount intended to be pulled)
- Efficiency (70%+)
- Power distribution between the +12V cord and the others
- Fans, and probably size
- Voltage stability (5% fluctuation on + voltages and 10% on -): How do I even measure its actual voltage, stick a voltmeter into the ATX12V plug?
- Over current protection: I don't even know the safety values for this, so I guess I won't bother
- Other protections: SCP, OVP together with OCP at least

Which is why you have to find a brand you trust, and rely on.

Did enough reading about PSU, I think. So many things to look out for.
- Appropriate maximum wattage (2x the amount intended to be pulled)
- Efficiency (70%+)
- Power distribution between the +12V cord and the others
- Fans, and probably size
- Voltage stability (5% fluctuation on + voltages and 10% on -): How do I even measure its actual voltage, stick a voltmeter into the ATX12V plug?
- Over current protection: I don't even know the safety values for this, so I guess I won't bother
- Other protections: SCP, OVP together with OCP at least

Yeah, that's the way to do it my friend.

You'll be amazed how well the Multimeter's connectors fit into a Molex connector, it fits -exactly-.

When you do this, make sure the Multimeter has built-in current resistance (any normally branded one has this), to avoid short circuiting your PSU... :+)